I finally got multi-color working on my Creality K1 Max using the 3D Chameleon.

Decided to make a 2 color benchy and scaled it down to 75% to save time, along with 0.25mm layer height.

So far the Chameleon has been pretty picky with filament, but when it works it works well! This print is with silk gold and matte black. I have even gotten 95A TPU to print with it surprisingly!

I modified the color-change code so it takes 1 minute less, which makes a big difference when you have hundreds of color changes.

Next up, 4 color benchy. Probably will be 10 hrs lol

  • felbane@lemmy.worldEnglish
    37·
    10 months ago

    The multi color is neat but that print quality… woof

    and this is coming from someone who daily drives an ANET

    • 4lan@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      6·
      10 months ago

      Yeah it’s not the prettiest lol. This is 75% size, and 0.25mm layers, which doesn’t help. (I just wanted to shorten print time)

      I had to use Prusa Slicer because of the custom GCode features, so my settings there are not perfect yet. It also isn’t controlling the aux fans properly like Creality slicer.

      My normal 1 color benchies are 22 minutes and absolutely perfect, using my finely tuned Creality Slicer profile.

  • huskypenguin@sh.itjust.worksEnglish
    14·
    10 months ago

    Four hours? That seems awfully slow. You say you’re printing this for your store? I would think you’d want to get a Bambu A1.

      • 4lan@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
        4·
        9 months ago

        1min30sec for every color change. Multiply that by hundreds of color changes and it adds up!

        I am starting to see why people usually print whole plates full of multicolor prints. It’s the same amount of color changes, but more way more efficient.

    • 4lan@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      4·
      10 months ago

      no, this was a print for myself to test the Chameleon. I don’t sell any multicolor prints as of now.

      I prefer non-proprietary parts and unlocked software you get with a rooted K1. I can edit my klipper configs directly.

      This is not my multicolor-specific machine. It will be used mostly for single color regular prints

        • 4lan@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
          2·
          9 months ago

          Yeah that is pretty cool how Bambu is dealing with it too, but not the same as having full root access to the Linux computer that runs the printer.

          I can SSH into my K1 and change things, install programs, etc. I even changed my Start_Print sequence to stop doing all the time-consuming calibration for every print. Sometimes I am just prototyping and dont want 10 min of calibration for a 3 minute print.

    • /home/pineapplelover@lemm.eeEnglish
      41·
      10 months ago

      Or just well tune your printer. Bambus are fine for people who can spend more money and use proprietary software but will spend less time tinkering.

      • huskypenguin@sh.itjust.worksEnglish
        3·
        10 months ago

        They have community firmware now and the A1 is $550 bucks with AMS that has no printer poop for multi material. Not that it matters to me, I just grabbed a Qidi X Max 3 for the print volume (and because it was open-ish Klipper).

    • 4lan@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      4·
      10 months ago

      very. I spent the last 3 weeks fiddling with the timing. If you are not willing to troubleshoot and work on it I’d go for a ready-built solution like the AMS. I like the challenge, but definitely underestimated it

      Most of it was me not fully understanding what was happening in the filament swap gcode. Once I understood that I was able to tweak settings to make it work. Once I found out certain filaments are just trouble I have had better luck. Still working on getting it to be less picky.

      the updated version in April is going to have sensor-less detection of where the filament is in it’s path, which will make timing a non-issue. Any Chameleon sold until then will have the hardware needed, and can be updated for free in April. can’t waiit

  • RememberTheApollo_@lemmy.worldEnglish
    5·
    9 months ago

    I thought this was going to be a joke where you hand-drew the bench with a filament pen, thought it was really good for that.

    Nope. Wow, that took a while.

  • ilovededyoupiggy@sh.itjust.worksEnglish
    3·
    10 months ago

    How do you like the K1 Max? I’m considering that one for my next purchase, upgrading from a heavily modified E3v2. Any downsides or things you wish you would have known first? Any other recommendations? I am mostly satisfied with my ender, just looking to get some speed and stability gains and maybe higher print quality by moving to CoreXY/Klipper system. Ender was a great, cheap way to teach myself, but now I’m looking to step it up just a bit. Thanks.

    • 4lan@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      3·
      10 months ago

      Overall I love it. If you are into tinkering, which it sounds like you are, you’ll like it.

      My K1 is about 4x faster than my modded ender 3. I print at 420mm/s max speed on my K1 with 20k mm/s2 max acceleration. It is amazing how fast things finish. Overnight prints are now day prints.

      You can get near-perfect prints out of the box, but will want to do some calibration to get better results. There are built in calibration tools in the Creality slicer. There is a VFA problem, but it seems to go away if I print walls above 220mm/s. Printing with polycarbonate is now fully possible and I love it. I print most replacement parts for the printer in PC.

      being able to use volcano nozzles is way better than anything proprietary. They are dirt cheap and you can get them in all different sizes.

      This thing is fully able to be modded, which I love about it. I’ve added:

      • second side aux fan
      • lighter printed hotend housing
      • side-spool mounts
      • tramming bed knobs
      • 270deg door hinge
      • lid-riser with LED strips inside
      • ilovededyoupiggy@sh.itjust.worksEnglish
        3·
        10 months ago

        Thank you! That’s very helpful!

        Do you have to use creality slicer or can it still work with Cura or Prusaslicer? And can I still use octoapp to watch/tune from my phone? That seems to be the biggest drawback I was able to sus out of their marketing materials is that it seems to be a lot more locked down to the creality ecosystem than prior models, I’m hoping that’s changed or I was just interpreting it wrong.

        Thanks again, appreciate the insight!

        • 4lan@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
          3·
          10 months ago

          You can use any slicer you like. I have mine connected to Cura, Creality and Prusa slicers with the ability to send and start a print right from the slicers.

          I never once set mine up with their Creality cloud app, you can skip that during setup and just do LAN and USB prints.

          The key is to root it, which is really easy, then you can install Fluidd and have way more control during prints. You can even change your pressure-advance on the fly. There are tons of mods you can do after rooting such as these

          from the looks of this post you can now use octoeverywhere on K1 printers

              • ilovededyoupiggy@sh.itjust.worksEnglish
                3·
                10 months ago

                Dude, you’re awesome! Yeah I actually just saw that Microcenter has them for $699 rn, matches full retail for the Bambu P1S and $100 cheaper than the Prusa Mk4 self-assembled kit, which are the other two I’ve been looking at. Pretty sure my search is over.

                • 4lan@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
                  2·
                  10 months ago

                  I don’t think you’ll be disappointed. The size of the max has been useful already. did 298mm tall print that would be impossible on those printers. Literally printed myself some small trash cans lol

  • pixeltree@lemmy.blahaj.zoneEnglish
    2·
    10 months ago

    If you don’t mimd me asking, what practical use case for this is there? Like it’s cool but I just split the model up and print them separately and it seems like so much less of a pain

    • GrayBackgroundMusic@lemm.eeMEnglish
      7·
      10 months ago

      Depends on the model. Sometimes printing separately is better! Sometimes printing together is better. It depends on the geometry. For example, if one color can act as support for the other. Printing materials on each other can be better bonding, too. It’s also better in a high volume sense to have the machine do as much work as possible.

    • Overzeetop@lemmy.worldEnglish
      5·
      10 months ago

      If you print with incompatible filaments (materials which don’t bond/adhere) you can get cheap, nearly perfect breakaway supports. I’ve done some rocket parts on my PrusaXL and it’s certifiably magic.

      • 4lan@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
        1·
        9 months ago

        yeah I saw people were doing that with PETG and PLA. I haven’t tried it yet but good to know that’s in my back pocket if I need it.

        Also soluble supports are a thing, although they might be trickier and more expensive

    • 4lan@lemmy.worldOPEnglish
      4·
      10 months ago

      good question, this was just a test print honestly. My main use case will be doing TPU and PLA for phone cases for my store. Soft inside, hard outside. The tests I have done have the two materials completely fused together and are promising.

      most full color prints can, and should, be printed separately and assembled later. I totally agree there, but there are times that isn’t ideal.

      I made a print that was a dial and small numbers with markings. This would have been a pain to glue 1.5mm wide pieces onto the main part. Multicolor printing made it super easy and the result is clean looking.

      I’ll probably print mostly single color, but I love having the flexibility