You must log in or register to comment.
Put a motion sensor in the pipe wired to a speaker that makes the warp noise each time it’s triggered.
Even simpler, an IR opto switch
Pressure switch in the bottom maybe?
This would be a good one to sand and polish if you are ever inclined. All filaments can be polished. PLA is only second best to ABS/ASA in my experience. PLA will hold a shine that is about the same texture as factory Lego bricks.
Abs/Asa can also be lightly sanded and then vapor smoothed.
They are very different processes. Vapor smoothing is more of a hack than anything. It traps the solvent in the part for a very long time. Like using acetone on auto body trim and bumpers that are mostly ABS will get you fired from any shop. It will bleed and ruin the top coat an clear coat as it vents from underneath them. In my testing, acetone greatly alters the structural strength as well. Polishing maintains or in some cases improves the mechanical performance of parts. Even for cosmetics, the polished part will look like it was injection molded while the inconsistency and rounded corners of vapor smoothing look very DIY. Polishing can be done poorly, and I am an actual finishing pro, so YRMV.
Luckily the part doesn’t have to be clearcoated and it actually has minimal impact on part strenght if you limit the exposure time
Do you have a guide?
I’m having trouble finding any of the places I described it in my post history. I thought I made an early post in this community about polishing, but I don’t see it. This has a couple of examples: https://lemmy.world/post/105150 but they are not great shots or anything.
I owned a small auto body shop through most of my 20’s. That is where I am drawing my experience from. I am using a similar technique as one might use to clear plastic headlights. With PLA you just need to be careful about overheating. It isn’t hard. You just start with something like 240 grit and step to, 400, 600, 800, 1200, 2000, then use a heavy cut compound to go into a shine, and a finishing compound if you want a full gloss. The most time is spent on the first grit. Every inclusion should be removed. It helps to tune the print to avoid any inclusions by very slight over extrusion. PLA can make a smooth solid looking surface pretty easily. Each grit must completely remove all scratches from the last grit. When a person is not familiar with how much work this involves for each step, use a guide coat. This can be a dusting of spray paint, or scribbling with a graphite pencil all over the surface. Then you sand the surface until all guide coat marks are gone. Consumer polishing compounds in the US targeted for automotive are worthless crap. In the professional space 3M Perfect-It 2 is the standard or was when I was painting. Toothpaste is a better polishing compound than anything you can buy in a big box or auto parts store. It will take a long time, but you do not need a mechanical polishing setup. Get a rag that has a similar texture to a cheap crew sock, spend an evening watching TV for a few hours, and never stop rubbing the thing with the sock and compound/toothpaste at the texture of something like playdough or a block of clay. Compounds are like lubricant while the texture of the pad/rag is doing the work. The golden rule of auto body finishing is “when you think you should be done, take a break because you’re half way done.”
Tasting History by Max Miller. Excellent choice!
Haha thanks.
I feel like this is a really good way to loose the remote in the basement
Bloop bloop bloop.
Why does that turtle have the remote?
You know these already exist, right… No need to 3d print one…
It’s rewarding to make your own things
Just because of your silly comment, I’m going to make my own model of this, even though someone already has, and Im going to print it out. Why? Because those two things will cost less and take less time than ordering one.
Edit: A little sketch, and a little revolve, and the .stl has been sent to the printer.
Here’s hoping you threw a little fillet on the top outer rim. That model was begging for a bit of a rounded edge.
Depends on which generation of mario game you’re going with.
Old ones didn’t have the pixels for the fillet
Yeah, good idea. Let’s use more plastic for useless fucking things. Or, maybe just go the fucking hardware store and buy it.
Make it at home out of plastic or go buy a plastic one? Brilliant.
Good idea. Instead of using plastic and harming the environment, have some other guy use plastic to make it and then ship it to you all the way from China.
Or just don’t make a useless pen holder of of plastic in the first fucking place. Cut open a soda can or some shit. I don’t fucking know, but people are making me out to be some kind of monster for telling people not to needlessly use plastic. What the fuck.
It’s cause you’re coming across like an A-hole. Why are you even hanging out in the 3D printing community if you don’t think people should be printing things?
I’m not saying that people can’t print things, I’m just saying that if you want a pipe, you can just go and buy a pipe. There is no need to print one out.
But that’s not what pipes really look like outside of cartoons. You can’t run down to Home Depot and but Mario World pipe to use as a pen holder. Maybe someday, but not today.
Do you actually wanna discuss this or do you just want to rant at people like a jerk? I’ll gladly discuss it calmly but you’re being a total jerk.
