That may well be the case that this is what he means, but how would we know when he calls it tilt shift anyway? Cause that’s not what “tilt shift” means.

If he wants to say it’s photoshopped or whatever, just say that instead of using terms that clearly don’t apply.

There is no tilt shifting in that photo. Neither physical (by actually tilting a single lens inside the lens assembly) nor digital. What you’re seeing as blurryness is just normal how camera focus works.

They may have applied a slight vignette blur to the edges, but it’s really hard to tell with the light bleed on the left edge.

But that’s my point. They didn’t change. In decades. Did your even read the OP?

What else do you want from that email? You got a new subscriber. There’s their name. Why change the layout just for the sake of change? Surely there are people having rules or automations tied to them, why brake them? Just for funsies?

Another name, depending on the exact context, is “hairpin NAT”. Should make googling with the specific router OP has easier.

But that’s the problem. For some reason tv show episodes get voted higher relatively speaking. So a 7.0 movie is kinda ok, but a 7.0 tv episode is probably pretty bad.

I guess it comes from the pool of people who vote on series are more inclined to liking it, since they somehow got to watch a season 3 episode. If they hated the show as they probably wouldn’t get that far. Movies are one-off by design and anyone could watch and rate it, obviously.

One small addendum/correction: I meant Stealth changer (which is based on Tap changer), but got the names confused.

Oh I’m tired, so I should sleep? Phew, so glad I had this guide to help me figure that out, never would’ve occurred to me. 🙄

Because they don’t want you to host things at your house, even though that’s perfectly fine from a technical standpoint. They might want to sell you a “business” line for this, or they just don’t want the traffic (since at least in my area, traffic is always included in any home Internet connection).

I know this post is quite a few days old already, but I still wanted to add a bit to the discussion.

The printers you list vary wildly. Both in terms of design goals (“what is the printer meant to do well”) and assembly requirement (from “ready to print in 10 minutes” to “you build this for like a week until something moves”). A Qidi is basically ready to go, a Prusa will take some time to put together (how much depends on if you got it as a kit or fully assembled). A Voron 2.4 takes about a week to build just for the printer, not including ERCF and/or tool changer, let alone tuning of said ERCF/tool changer.

Also there’s the Troodon, which is a Formbot prebuilt that is closer to a real Voron 2.4 than a Sovol SV08, just to add to your list. It has a stock stealthburner tool head compared to the proprietary thing that Sovol uses, for example.

I’ve recently built a Voron 2.4r2 (Formbot kit) and loved it, but it was like my 4th printer (and a previous printer was a self-sourced scratch build). So do you have experience with 3d printers, and building them or tinkering with them? I would probably not recommend building one otherwise, but it’s not impossible either, just expect a relatively steep learning curve if you have no prior experience.

Do you want to mostly just print in colors but same filament ype, or do you want to mainly have multi-material capabilities? So do you need 5+, or would 2 colors with the option to expand work for you?

If the Voron is a real option for you, I’d highly recommend it. Just make sure you’re going with a can-bus based build/kit (like Formbot). These days I wouldn’t go with an ERCF due to the complexity of building it and then setting it up, as tuning is supposedly a bit of a process. Also you mentioned that the amount of waste during multi-color prints is a real factor for you, and that puts single-nozzle systems inherently at a disadvantage as you just have to purge the hotend on every change. So I would suggest a tool changing system, and I would either start with that (but just 2 tool heads), or add it as the first project. Specifically, I would suggest using the Tapchanger as a modern system. Frankly adding a tool head like that is much less effort than building an ERCF, but also just adds 1 filament each and not like 9 at once.

Yea imagine this was a video of soldiers of some state murdering people. Same argument. You still agree? Also a video of one (or more) stabbings.

Well to my knowledge there are (or at least were) workarounds to get win 11 to install anyway. It of course worked fine, despite saying it needed a TPM and/or specific minimum CPU.

From an eWaste perspective Microsofts decision to force literally millions of PCs into fake obsolescence is obviously horrible. And I honestly have no idea what their motivation even was for this.

As for trying Linux, these days it really isn’t even a weekend. Sure if you want to tinker and learn, you can invest a weekend. But if you want to just use the PC just pick any of the commonly recommended distros and just go. It’s installed in minutes and you can honestly just use the PC for whatever you used to use it before. Just backup/move your data off it and you got nothing to lose but like an hour, if it really doesn’t work as you need it to.

Dunno yet, sounds like future me’s problem. Mist likely some version of Linux unless win 11 drastically changes course (unlikely).

This also makes it easy to block Win 10 from upgrading to 11, just disable tpm in BIOS. From where I’m sitting, that’s kinda convenient.

Spotify can actually do that, but it’s a bit cumbersome: as the local songs to a playlist on a PC. Then set that playlist to be downloaded on the phone, and it will download the files directly from the PC as long as they are on the same network.

Heroic also supports Amazon games, doesn’t it?

It doesn’t really fill all the basic use cases I have either unfortunately. But it will probably be my fall back, yes.

I wish tried it. The thing implied twice and I had to start from scratch. Not exactly “smooth”. Went to a full manual install, which is better but still very far from “good” or “stable”.

Unless something changed in the last few weeks, Android app can’t do bidirectional folder sync like you’re used to from Google drive, Dropbox or one drive. You can mark a folder for “sync”, but try copying something into it, it changing an existing file: no change on the server. I think you can manually open the app, navigate to the folder and open the menu to “sync”, but what the hell is the point in having it marked to be synced then? I wanted to use it for my keepass DB for example, where that would be a requirement.

Yes, updates are a nightmare. I’m not on docker (also not sure if better or worse) and every 2nd update sometime significantly breaks that I have to fix manually. Last time, the “group folders” plugin (official, from the Nextcloud devs) broke it so bad that Nextcloud wouldn’t even start. I had to go into maintenance mode, disable the plug-in (“app” I guess it’s the term?), update it from console, re-enable it, disable maintenance mode. Not pictured: finding out what the god damn problem was this time. I’ve just about had it…

I’m still using Nextcloud, have been for only 2-3 years, but it’s getting to the point where I’m more annoyed about it than appreciating the usefulness

It’s not just being slow, it issues with the install. I’m pretty sure these days I’d be better of with specialized individual services than this one monster that die absolutely nothing well. It still can’t even sync files on Android ffs. I’d consider this core functionality.