I need some unsee juice
I need some unsee juice
I think it’s a good added measure to stop a print, in this case something caused the spaghetti, it would have kept causing spaghetti but the cover popping off stopped the print. I’ve got about 400 hrs on my p1s (upgraded from p1p), and I’ve never had the faceplate pop off. I would guess this is an isolated incident.
Having six throwing stars and a shitload of buffs… as a potato
That’s a shitty post 🤌
Haven’t heard. What’s up?
But… do you believe in life after love???
Just fucking with you. I hate every note of every song she’s made, too
Pfft. It’s obvious. Eddie Veddar
Oh wait…
Fuck 'em. Drink on the job. Don’t ruin your days off.
Love it when printers actually solve a problem!
Next time fuck someone who has a car
Not all heroes wear capes
Try using adaptive layer height, it’s the icon with 4 horizontal lines up top. Click adaptive and move the slider left for quality. Then look on the right hand side at the bar running vertically. Try to make it all green by moving the light color line to the left. Worth a shot and costs you nothing other than some filament and time. Solved a bunch of my issues on my p1p/s
What can I say, I’m a middle-of-the-road type guy
68 wide, of course!
SCSI>USB-C
Crackers. Fitting because he’s white 😂
I agree, if you’re not having issues and are otherwise happy with the output. I went the DD route after my extruder cracked, and at the time the (slight) speed increase I was able to get on my e3v2 was worth it. The NG setup is quite good if you do choose to go that route, however.
I have the microswiss NG/DD setup on my ender, works considerably better than stock. It is expensive though. Note that the nozzle that comes with it isn’t hardened (at least mine wasnt), so if you’re going to do filled / abrasive filaments you’ll definitely want to change that out. Also note that once you change to DD your steps will need to be recalibrate, but the microswiss website walks you through all of it
🤢🤮